As women age, they have to undergo a difficult phase, that can last several years, and is marked by strong modifications on their body: the menopause. More precisely the pre-menopause and post-menopause, these periods when estrogen levels fluctuate and drop dramatically. The consequences are well-known: hot flashes, hair loss, wrinkles apparition and increase, skin sagging. After photo-aging, inflamm'aging and chronoaging, hormonal aging is another cause to the acceleration of the apparition aging signs.

To support women in this difficult period when they more than ever need specific cares for their skins and hair, Clariant Active Ingredients defined several natural active ingredients with strong specific activities. Discover our solutions to the 10 main issues of hormonal aging.

CHANGE #1:skin structure decay leads to wrinkles and skin sagging

In the first 5 years after menopause, collagen type I and III decrease by 30%, leading to a loss of elasticity of 1.5% per year due to the lack of estrogen.

Prenylium, by protecting the skin's matrisome, protects collagen and plumps skin by +13.4% after 8 weeks. It also decrease wrinkles and skin roughness by respectively 16.6% and 19.9%, while Rootness Energize reactivates the overall skin metabolism to improve elasticity by 27% and firmness by 20% after 62 days.

These two natural active ingredients from plant roots can efficiently reduce the signs of aging caused by collagen and elastic fibers decrease in the skin.


CHANGE #2: skin thinning leads to drier and easily damaged skin

Collagen content is reduced by 2% each menopausal year. Combined with a decrease in keratinocytes proliferation, this leads to a reduction of skin thickness by more than 1% per year. As the skin is thinner, its capacity to retain water is impaired, leading to a drier skin more prone to aggressions.

Epseama stimulates epidermis thickness and keratinocytes proliferation. It reduces nasolabial wrinkles by 19% in 4 weeks, and increase skin hydration by 14,2%. For its part, Fuligo, by stimulating stem cells and fibroblasts proliferation, increases skin density by 11,5%.

These two actives from the sea efficiently reinforce skin epidermis and also contribute to reduce wrinkles.


CHANGE #3: impaired barrier function leads to skin dryness and sensitive skin symptoms

With hormonal changes, sebum and lipid production decrease. In addition, the surface area of corneocytes becomes disorganized. As a result, the time to restore barrier function is doubled in aged skins than in younger skins. Transepidermal water loss (TEWL) increases and sensitive skin symptoms appear.

Eosidin, an extract of unripe Citrus unshiu, efficiently strenghtens the barrier function by boosting keratin-1, involucrin, filaggrin, and transglutaminase-1, leading to an increase in the formation of the cornified enveloppe. In the meantime, it also soothe the skin by regulating eotaxin-1 and histamine release. As a result, skin hydration increases by 40% and TEWL drops by 17% after only 2 weeks. MultiEx HumiD-Max Plus also boosts skin hydration by 43% and reduces TEWL by 43% in 7 days.


CHANGE #4: skin repair slows down

When subject to aggressions, the skin goes through an inflammatory phase to fight the aggressors and a proliferative phase to recover. In menopausal skins, the inflammatory phase is stronger and the proliferative phase is less efficient due to delayed re-epithelialisation, reduced collagen deposition and decreased TGF-beta1 expression. As a result, wound healing takes longer.

To support skin repair, HerbEx Yeast Beta Glucan, a polysaccharide extracted from saccharomyces cerevisiae yeast, modulates the release of inflammatory markers (IL-2, IFN-y, TNF-α and MIP-2) and stimulates fibroblasts proliferation by 41% to support wound closure.


CHANGE #5: hot flashes lead to sweating and can cause sleep disturbance

Up to 80% of women going through menopause experience hot flashes, a rapid and exaggerated heat dissipation response by the body. When occuring during the night, they can cause multiple awakenings and sleep disturbance. They can also be a cause of "thermal aging".

HerbCool, by cooling the skin's surface is able to reduce the expression of MMP-1 after a heat shock and provide skin rejuvenation. B-Circadin resynchronizes the skin cells' circadian rhythm to improve its biological functions, and contributes to a better skin complexion.


CHANGE #6: melanocytes activity leads to hyperpigmented spots

Estrogen regulates DCT (Dopachrome tautomerase), an enzyme of tyrosinase family, and a decrease in estrogen levels leads to hyperpigmentation and apparition of spots.

Alpha-Melight, natural bisabolol, inhibits melanin formation for a lightening effect of +74% after 8 weeks. HodVital tackles melanogenesis process by preventing melanin production and tyrosinase activation for skin pigmentation regulation. It lightens skin by +7.5% after 8 weeks and reduces facial spots intensity by 4.5% after 45 days.

These two actives efficiently fights the formation of hyperpigmented areas on the skin.


CHANGE #7: skin pH fluctuation due to hormonal changes leads to dysbiosis and breakouts

Up to 40% of postmenopausal women have symptoms of atrophic vaginitis, than can be caused by intimate pH modifications, and 15% of women over 50 experience acne.

With active ingredients able to modulate specific bacterial population, it is possible to relieve these symptoms. Coticha modulates the growth of Candida albicans, a yeast responsible for vaginal candidiasis. It brings an immediate relief and has a prolonged activity over time. As for Gesolza, its capacity to modulate Propionibacterium acnes bacteria proliferation favors decrease in skin redness, irritation and spots.


CHANGE #8: reduced follicles activity leads to thinner hair

When the levels of estrogen drop hair grows more slowly and becomes much thinner. Up to 2 over 3 post-menopausal women suffer from hair thinning or bald spots.

By smoothing hair cuticles and strenghtening hair shaft, K-Oleo repairs and reinforces hair fiber structure. EMortal Pep, another active ingredient, prevents hair loss by acting on stem cells stimulation, to increase hair density by +5.4% after 3 months.


CHANGE #9: thinner hair cause scalp exposure and increases scalp sensitivity and squames

As skin becomes thinner with menopause, so does the scalp. It becomes less effective at being a protective barrier, and is more sensitive to irritation. Scratching reactions to calm itching sensations lead to the apparition of squames (dandruffs).

EquiScalp, a new active ingredient with scalp soothing properties and mild to the scalp's microbiota, improves the scalp condition by reducing both sebum production and desquamation by 20%.