An even complexion is a sign of a healthy skin and youth, and is widely looked for by women all around the globe. But aging and environmental factors such as pollution or UVs affect skin pigmentation. By provoking inflammatory reactions at the epidermal cells level, they will induce biological process that will lead to an increase of melanin synthesis. Melanin has a protective role on DNA against damages caused by UV rays. But in case of excessive synthesis, it will make dark spots and pigmentation marks appear on the skin.
To improve skin complexion and lighten skin tone, Clariant Active Ingredient has developed a range of natural actives for cosmetic skin care products that will interfere with all the steps of the biological process of melanin production.
Alpha-Melight®: blocking the signals that trigger melanogenesis
Sun, stress, or chemical aggressors lead to the production of reactive oxygen species (ROS) by the skin cells. ROS will activate the Nf-kB pathway in the keratinocytes and stimulate the production of irritation mediators. At the same time, the levels of a natural hormone, the α-MSH (Melanocyte-Stimulating-Hormone), is also increased. This hormone will bind to receptors at the surface of melanocytes and trigger the melanin synthesis process that will lead to hyper-pigmentation.
To prevent excess melanin synthesis, Clariant Active Ingredients has developed Alpha-Melight, a natural active ingredient rich in α-bisabolol extracted from the candeia tree (Eremanthus erythropappus) bark. α-bisabolol will block the transduction signal after melanocyte receptors are triggered, thus preventing the synthesis of melanin.
Thanks to this active, Alpha-Melight will decrease skin pigmentation, showing a strong lightening effect.
HodVital®: blocking the melanogenesis process and promoting skin renewal
When the α-MSH (Melanocyte Stimulating Hormone) level increase in the melanocyte due to external aggressions such as UVs or pollutants, it induces an increase of the level of AMPc in the cell. AMPc strongly increases tyrosinase production, a key enzyme in the melanogenesis process. Hence, more melanin will be produced and keratinocyte will be more pigmented and appear darker.
To block the melanin synthesis, Clariant Active Ingredient has developed HodVital, an active ingredient that inhibits AMPc activity. HodVital is made of germinated barley, rich in enzymes and other phytochemicals, most particularly hordenine, known for its melanogenesis inhibition effect.
In addition, HodVital favors skin desquamation, so that the skin eliminates the keratinocytes rich in pigments and synthetize new ones, melanin-free. This way, the lightening of the skin will be accelerated.
MadeWhite™: removing visible dark spots caused by skin disorders
Wound, rash, pimple or other local stimuli are skin disorders that cause irritation. This irritation will activate genes in the melanocytes, which triggers melanogenesis in a localized area. When melanin accumulates in one area it then generates a dark spot and thus uneven tone complexion.
To remove the dark spots on the skin, Clariant Active Ingredient developed MadeWhite. This natural ingredient is made of Centella asiatica extract, a plant well known for its healing properties on superficial wounds and lightening activity. This plant is rich in madecassoside, a glycoside with anti-irritation effects.
By reducing irritation, MadeWhite has demonstrated its efficacy in lightening armpit skin as it lowered the melanin index during clinical trials.