Our skin is in direct contact with the atmosphere. Its protective barrier effect shields us from external and environmental aggressions, such as pollution, UV and blue-light. But with the time passing by, and the accumulation of these factors, the skin barrier function is impaired. This results in a decreased skin quality: less elastic, less firm, wrinkles and fine lines will appear. Also, these external factors will induce a lack of skin hydration, leading to discomfort.
To help the skin defends itself and recover its protective function, Clariant Active Ingredients has developed a range of natural actives for cosmetic skin care products that will support the biological functions of the cells, to fight the consequences of aging.
Epseama®: targeting epigenetics through the non long-coding RNA nc886
Gene expression and how they are translated into proteins can be influenced by external factors. This phenomenon is called epigenetics. Some genes are transcripted in non coding RNA (ncRNA), that will not be translated into proteins. Their function is to regulate information flow from DNA to proteins. Recently, it has been shown that the expression of a long non-coding RNA called nc866 decrease with age and can affect skin rejuvenation.
Clariant Active Ingredient is the first company to have developed an active ingredient for skincare that targets the long-coding RNA nc886, to fight chronoaging and photoaging. Called Epseama, it is made of an extract of Laminaria japonica, a seaweed cultivated in South Korea and commonly used in asian food due to its valuable composition.
Thanks to Epseama, difficult to remove nasolabial wrinkles are efficiently reduced in only one month. Spots are reduced and surface pigmentation is homogeneized, for a rejuvenated look.
AkebiSol®: a protective action against the glycation process
Glycation is a spontaneous and non-enzymatic reaction between sugar and collagen that results in the formation of a complex, called Advanced Glycation End-products (AGEs). This complex affects the proteins’ function as it modifies their shapes. Once it is formed, it cannot be undone. In addition, it is also difficult to be broken down by enzymes as the new structure makes it difficult for these enzymes to reach the proteins. Therefore, AGEs cannot be replaced by newly created structures.
In the skin, the glycation process will lead to depletion of the elastin and collagen fibers, responsible for skin elasticity and firmness. This will lead to an unhealthy look and premature signs of aging with the appearance of wrinkles.
To protect the skin against the glycation process, Clariant Active Ingredient has developed a natural active ingredient called AkebiSol. AkebiSol is made from extracts of Akebia quinata fruit, also known as the chocolate vine, a plant native from Korea and Japan. This fruit has a strong anti-glycation activity to prevent the formation of AGEs. It has also an anti-collagenase activity, fighting the breakdown of collagen.
Dongbaek Oil : the oil with multiple anti-aging properties
Getting older triggers processes that lead to the appearance of aging signs, such as wrinkles. Aging is a normal process. But aging too fast is not. Many inflammatory factors like nitric oxide (NO), prostaglandin E2 (PGE2) and TNF-α are produced leading to the destruction of the natural and major components of skin such as collagen. The accumulation of oxidized proteins makes the skin to look less healthy, and premature signs of aging appear.
To help the skin keeps a fresh and healthy look, Clariant Active Ingredient has developed Dongbaek Oil. This oil is extracted from the seeds of the Camellia japonica, a plant cultivated in Jeju island, a South Korean island rich in endemic plants with superior properties for cosmetics.
Thanks to its unique composition, Dongbaek Oil inhibits the production of NO, PGE2 and TNF-α pro-inflammatory mediators. In addition, it reduces the expression of iNOS and COX-2 genes, responsible for inflammation. Dongbaek Oil has highly effective anti-oxidant and overall anti-aging properties.
LotuStem™: skin stem cells revitalization
The skin constantly renews itself throughout life. Stem cells residing in the basal layer of the epidermis ensure the maintenance of skin homeostasis. They multiply into cells that will then differentiate and structure the skin layers. With aging, the division cycles of the stem cells stop and skin renewal will slow down, leading to a poor skin structure and appearance of wrinkles.
To rejuvenate the skin, Clariant Active Ingredients developed LotuStem. This natural ingredient is made of Andrographis paniculata extract, a plant native to India and Sri Lanka. It has been used over centuries for ayurvedic medicine.
LotuStem has demonstrated a high capacity in protecting the stem cells reservoir in order to promote skin differentiation, and so visibly reduce the signs of aging.
NLT Adenosphere 2.0: the dermis re-densifier for smoother skin
Over the years, dermis components are less abundant: fibroblasts metabolism becomes sluggish which leads to less collagen production. Decreased synthesis is exacerbated by the accumulation of stress and the stimulation of proteases such as metalloproteinase-1 (MMP-1), which contribute to increased collagen degradation. The result is a break down in dermal scaffolding. Visually, skin sags which leads to an irregular and rough surface, as well as wrinkles.
To support skin against intrinsic and extrinsic aging factors in order to help skin look smoother, Clariant Active Ingredients developed NLT Adenosphere 2.0, a liposome encapsulating adenosine, a molecule recognized for its anti-wrinkle benefits. NLT AdenoSphere 2.0 is a dermis re-densifier, targeting extracellular matrix components improving smoothness, firmness and tonicity. After one month, signs of skin irregularity disappeared and the appearance of crow’s feet wrinkles and nasolabial folds were reduced. Results after two months are outstanding.