Environment-protection active ingredients
to help skin fight pollution
Our skin is in direct contact with the atmosphere. Its protective barrier effect shields us from external and environmental aggressions, such as pollution, UV and blue-light. But with the time passing by, and the accumulation of these factors, the skin barrier function is impaired. This results in a decreased skin quality: less elastic, less firm, wrinkles will appear. Also, these external factors will induce inflammation that will cause redness and skin hyperpigmentation, leading to an uneven tone and complexion.
To help the skin defends itself and recover its protective function, Clariant Active Ingredients has developed a range of natural actives for cosmetic skin care products that will support the biological functions of the cell to fight the consequences of environmental aggressions.
Eosidin®: protection against indoor pollution
Pollution is not only outside. It is also strongly present indoor, and 100% of homes are polluted. Indoors, this pollution is even more concentrated, with 2 to 5 times more contaminants indoors than outdoors. The origins of these pollutants are household products, tobacco smoke, dust, heavy metals and particulate matters.
As we spend 90% of our time indoors, this pollution as a direct impact on our health, well-being, and skin quality. It is responsible for skin itching, irritation, dryness, allergic skin conditions, atopic-prone skin and hypersensitivity.
In contact with pollutants and allergens, the Langerhans cells in the epidermis will be activated. They will stimulate the lymphocytes Th2 that will release interleukin 4 (IL-4), an irritation mediator. The IL-4 will bind to fibroblasts and activate the JAK/STAT6 pathway, leading to a production of eotaxin by the fibroblasts. The presence of this protein in the dermis will conduct to the recruitment of eosinophils, leading to a release of histamine by mast cells and elongation of nerve fibers. The skin will become more sensitive and barrier function will be impaired.
To protect the skin against indoor pollution consequences, Clariant Active Ingredients has developed Eosidin. This innovative natural ingredient is the first one on the market specially dedicated to indoor pollution.
Eosidin is made of extracts of green citrus unshiu from Jeju island. It is rich in synephrine, hesperidin and naringin.
Eosidin blocks the JAK/STAT6 pathway, thus decreasing the eotaxin synthesis and histamin release. It improves skin barrier function and significantly reduces hypersensitivity.
For its innovative action, Eosidin has won the silver price at the Itehpec Innovation Awards at In-Cosmetics Latin America in April 2017. Its sustainable sourcing also awarded it the Sustainable Ingredient Prize at the Sustainable Beauty Awards 2018.
RedSnow®: protection against air pollution
Environmental pollution has become one of the major concern for the population all around the world. Industrialization has led to diffusion of pollutants in the atmosphere, with an acceleration of this diffusion since the 20th century. In addition, people have increasingly congregated in urban areas, with currently 28 megacities in the world (more than ten millions people), leading to a concentration of cars with high emission of pollutants. Today, 9 out of 10 people worldwide are exposed to air pollution that exceeds World Health Organization limits.
It is well-known that the pollution has very bad consequences on health, as it causes 70 000 premature deaths in the US each year and caused the death of 223 000 people around the world in 2010 because of air pollution induced lung cancers. But our skin is affected as well by this pollution, and a growing number of people are concerned by the effects of pollution on their skin quality. According to a consumer survey lead by Clariant, pollution ranks 5 in the factors that negatively influence skin appearance, just after medication, irritating products, poor nutrition and poor personal hygiene.
The main pollutants present in the air are particulate matters, also called PM2.5 and PM10 depending on their size, heavy metals, polycyclic Aromatic Hydrocarbons (PAHs) and gaseous pollutants.
The small molecular size of these pollutants allow them to penetrate through the skin layers, inside the epidermal and dermal cells. In the cells, they will activate the aryl hydrocarbon receptors (AhR) that will induce the production of Reactive Oxygen Species (ROS). Pollutants will also stimulate the production of ROS through the NADPH oxidase (NOX) activation pathway. These ROS will lead to the activation of COX-2 and MMP-1 genes, responsible for irritation and collagen degradation. Wrinkles will appear, the skin will be dry, irritated, and show signs of premature aging.
To help the skin fight urban and outdoor pollution, Clariant Active Ingredients has developed RedSnow. This innovative natural active ingredient is made of Camellia japonica flowers from Jeju island. This flower is rich in protocatechuic acid, a phenolic acid with powerful anti-oxidant and anti-irritation activities.
RedSnow will act on the cells AhR to prevent particulate matters, PAHs and heavy metals trigger the pathway that conducts to oxidation and irritation. It will also block the NOX activation pathway. Thanks to these combined actions, RedSnow will reduce the appearance of wrinkles and skin microrelief, increase hydration, and increase dermal density of skins subjected to a polluted environment.
BioDTox®: skin detoxification after exposition to pollution
Our environment is more and more polluted and our lifestyles are changing. As a consequence, we are more exposed to heavy metals, chemical compounds, toxins, UV rays… In addition, when using make-up and skin care products, women put additional chemicals that are absorbed by blood circulation and provoke an accumulation of toxins in the skin. All this has deep impact on skin condition as it causes skin barrier disruption, sebum production, and skin imperfections with hyperpigmentation and dark spots.
Our skin has the ability to detoxify through its natural metabolism. This detoxification process takes place in two phases. On the first phase, toxins are transformed in reactive oxygen species (ROS). On the second phase, the ROS are transformed by enzymes, such as catalase, glucathione and superoxide dismutase (SOD) on inactive hydrophilic products that are then excreted by the keratinocytes. The production of these enzymes is activated by a molecule called the Nrf2 factor that will bind specific genes. But when ROS accumulate quicker than enzymes are able to degrade them, it leads to oxidative stress that can have deleterious effects on the cell.
To facilitate toxin elimination by skin cells, Clariant Active Ingredients has developed BioDTox. This innovative natural ingredient contains citrus bioflavonoids, aloe polyphenols, and brassica sulforaphane that have strong anti-oxidant properties.
B-Circadin®: circadian rhythm resynchronization and protection against blue light
Skin cells follow a biological cycle of approximately 24 hours, called the circadian rhythm, governed by 4 genes called Bmal, Per, Cry and Clock. It controls several important biological mechanisms, such as aquaporin-3 involved in the maintenance of epidermal hydration, and the Nrf2 pathway, one of the most important detoxification pathway in the body.
But this natural cycle can be disrupted by external factors such as stress, jetlag, blue-light from screens or intense lifestyle. As a consequence, the skin is "lost in time" and more prone to aggressions, altering its well-being and leading to signs of fatigue.
B-Circadin is a new product developed by Clariant Active Ingredients, that targets both circadian rhythm dysregulation and blue-light generated oxidative stress (patent pending). It resynchronizes Bmal-1, Per-2 and Cry-1 expressions. It is also able to restore the rhythmic expression of aquaporin-3 and to stimulate the Nrf2 detoxification pathway, to efficiently restores the skin's well-being, for a revitalized and radiant complexion.
B-Circadin is made of Lespedeza capitata leaf extract, a plant harvested in South Korea where it is used for its medicinal properties.
Varrier®: the circadian cycles guardian
When skin is excessively exposed to UV, or even just summer sunlight, several consequences rapidly take effect. Some skin cells die, some cytokines are released which triggers irritation, and the circadian cycle is dysregulated. As a consequence of this dysregulation, our skin becomes lost in time, not knowing if it is day or night. Without proper control of the circadian rhythm, the skin is more prone to age faster.
To protect the skin's circadian rhythm, Clariant Active Ingredients developed Varrier, a unique combination of 4 natural berry extracts: strawberry, barberry, mulberry and Goji. All of these play a role in the control of the circadian cycle and UVB aggressions. At the clinical level, Varrier gives a very strong anti-wrinkle effect after only two weeks, and even better after 4 weeks.
Vagestop™: the defender against UV damage
Daily sun exposure generates deleterious effects on cellular metabolism that creates visible effects on the skin’s surface. The damaging effects of UV light occur both directly and indirectly by creating oxidative stress (free radicals) that modify or damage the DNA of the cell (CPD formation). These changes inhibit normal cellular function and can ultimately lead to cellular death and visible signs of skin irritation. Skin is further compromised by a disrupted barrier function that leads to dehydration and perpetuates irritation. Repeated sun exposure causes cumulative damage to extracellular matrix components such as collagen which affects the skin’s structure.
To create a defense against UV damage, Clariant Active Ingredients developed VageStop. This active ingredient is derived from Sparassis crispa, a mushroom used in traditional medicine that is commonly referred to as Cauliflower mushroom because of its unique shape. It contains veratric acid, a natural benzoic acid derivative with powerful antioxidant and anti-inflammatory properties . VageStop protects and repairs the skin from UV-induced damage by reinforcing the cell’s natural defenses. Skin barrier function is recovered which boosts hydration and minimizes irritation.
A.W.
